Christmas in Český Krumlov: My Perfect Winter Day with Local Tips

I was born in the Czech Republic, I live in Prague and Český Krumlov is one of those places I keep going back to, whatever the season. Last December I spent a lovely pre-Christmas day there, wandering from one cafe place to another, hiding from the cold in the local museums and watching the lights come on as the afternoon faded. It was easily one of the best days of the whole Christmas time that year.

In this blog post, I’ve included all the places I visited on that day and some I’ve visited many times before. If you want to have the same magical experience, my best advice is to travel to Cesky Krumlov on a weekday. Weekends in December bring coach tours from Austria and Germany and the narrow lanes fill up very quickly. On a Tuesday or Wednesday you get the same beautiful town with far more room to breathe.

Since it’ was pretty chilly, I decided that I’ll plan my day with plenty of breaks in local cafes. As you can see my first one was straight of the bus!

I truly had the most amazing festive day in Cesky Krumlov, it really felt like being in a magical fairy tale and that lovely Christmassy feel stayed with me long time after I’ve left the town.

Bring warm shoes, take your time and stay until the lights come on. That’s when the town really comes alive.

1. Cafein

I walked through the Budějovice Gate and went straight into Cafein for my first coffee of the day. The gate is worth a mention before you go in. It was built between 1598 and 1602 and is the only survivor of the nine gates that once guarded the town. It was finished just as the great Rosenberg family, who had ruled Krumlov since 1302, died out and the estate was sold to Emperor Rudolf II.

Cafein cafe does great breakfasts, but honestly, it was a little too busy to sit down when I visited. I ordered coffee to go and it was fabulous: smooth, strong and exactly what I needed after a long journey on the bus. The Christmas decorations inside are really pretty too. If you want a proper sit-down breakfast, I think you need to arrive early, especially on a weekend.

• Location: Just inside the Budějovice Gate, at the start of Latrán
• Opening Times: 8:00 to 17:00
• Cost: Expect around 70–90 CZK for a coffee, breakfast from 150 – 250 CZK

2. Christmas Decorations Shop & Museum

Latrán was a separate settlement from the Inner Town until 1555, when the two were finally joined. Walking down it today, you can still see the old craftsmen’s and merchants’ houses, many with Gothic cores hidden behind later Renaissance and Baroque façades.

This shop and museum is open all year round, but just before Christmas is my favourite time to visit. Czech glass Christmas decorations have a long history.

Glass-blowing workshops in the mountains of northern Bohemia were turning out tree ornaments by the 19th century and in 2020 the hand-blown glass bead decorations from Poniklá were added to UNESCO’s list of intangible cultural heritage. That’s quite something for a tiny village!

I bought several small glass tree decorations here. They were so lovely and reasonably priced and the staff were genuinely happy to help me choose. It’s a wonderful place to find a little gift that actually comes from this part of the world, rather than something mass-produced.

• Location: Latrán street, between the Budějovice Gate and the castle
• Opening Times: Open daily 10:00 to 18:00
• Tickets & Cost: Free to browse, christmas decorations from 80 CZK

3. Museum of Shops

You can’t get more nostalgic than this. It’s a working shop and a museum at the same time, full of old-fashioned enamel advertising signs, tins, packaging and souvenirs. It’s a small place, but filled with so many displays and it’s definitely perfect for pre- Christmas visit.

Many of the designs go back to the First Czechoslovak Republic of 1918 to 1938, which was the golden age for Czech advertising and branding. It’s fascinating to see how familiar some of these brands still today.

I really like that you can actually buy reproductions of the old signs and they are perfect as an oldfashioned decorations for your kitchen. I usually buy one to top up my collection!

• Location: Latrán area, on the way towards the castle
• Opening Times: Daily 10:00 to 17:00
• Tickets: Free to browse

4. Castle Tower & Castle Museum

Český Krumlov Castle is the second largest castle complex in the Czech Republic after Prague Castle, but during the winter the main buildings are closed. The only part that’s open is the tower as you walk towards the castle.

The castle history goes back to the 13th century, when the Vítkovci family built the first Gothic castle above the river. Between 1580 and 1590 it was remodelled in Renaissance style by the Italian architect Baldassare Maggi for Vilém of Rosenberg and the colourful painted walls decoration you see today dates from 1590.

You climb 162 steps to the top, and the view over the red rooftops and the bend of the Vltava is amazing. The museum below tells the story of the four families who owned the castle: the Rosenbergs, the Eggenbergs, and from 1719 until 1947, the Schwarzenbergs.

• Location: First courtyard of Český Krumlov Castle
• Opening Times: Winter (November to March) Tuesday to Sunday, 9:00 to 15:00. Closed on Mondays.
• Tickets: 180 CZK for adults, concessions available. Included in the Český Krumlov Card (see below).

5. Castle Bears

If you are travelling with children, you’ll love this one! Bears have lived in the castle moat since at least 1707, when they’re first mentioned in the local history records.

The tradition comes from the Rosenbergs family, who liked to claim they were descended from the powerful Italian Orsini family. The Orsini name comes from orso, Italian for bear.

On 24th of December, the Czech Christmas day, the bears get a special treat. People are allowed to bring fruit and vegetables to the moat as gifts for the bears. There are special trained staff, who check everything before it gets given to the bears. I think it’s a lovely tradition and the children absolutely love it.

• Location: The moat between the first and second castle courtyards
• Opening Times: The bears can be seen from the bridge most of the day. The Bear Christmas event usually takes place in the morning of 24 December.
• Tickets: Free.

6. Christmas Market on Svornosti Square

Svornosti Square translates as “Concord Square”, and it has been the heart of the Inner Town since the Middle Ages. The town hall on the north side was created by joining two Gothic houses and the pretty house arcade was added during Renaissance time.

In the middle stands the Marian plague column, made between 1714 and 1716 by the sculptor Matthias Wenzel Jäckel, as thanks for the end of a plague outbreak.

I’ll be honest: it isn’t the biggest Christmas market I’ve seen and if you’re used to Vienna or even Prague, it will feel small. But there are enough stalls with local crafts and food to fill the square and the setting is so pretty that it really doesn’t matter. Make sure you come back again at dusk, when the tree is lit and the whole square starts to glow.

• Location: Svornosti Square (Náměstí Svornosti), Inner Town
• Opening Times: Late November until just before Christmas, 10:00 to 19:00 daily
• Tickets: Free entry

7. Christmas Street (Šatlavská)

Šatlavská runs off Svornosti Square and takes its name from the šatlava, the old town jail, which stood here from the 16th century. These days the atmosphere is much more cheerful. Lights are strung between the old houses and in December it becomes a real Christmas street.

I walked through during the day and then again later when it was getting dark and the lights came on. The difference is wonderful, so I recommend doing both.

The local businesses open little windows selling hot drinks and mulled wine and holding a warm cup while you stroll down a medieval lane is one of my favourite Christmas memories. It’s a fabulous place for photos too.

• Location: Šatlavská street, just off Svornosti Square
• Opening Times: The street is always open. The drinks windows usually serve from late morning until evening during Advent.
• Tickets: Free. Mulled wine costs around 80–100 CZK.

8. St Vitus Church

St Vitus church is sort of hidden behind the Svornosti Square and to get there you need to climb a few steep steps. It was built between 1407 and 1439 and its tall Gothic tower is part of almost every view of the town. Inside, look for the tomb of the Rosenberg family, the pretty Baroque organ from 1716 and the beautiful vaulted ceiling.

I love visiting churches, especially at Christmas. It’s so quiet inside after the noisy streets and market square. Last time I visited, I sat for a while, thought about the year and things that were churning in my head and lit a candle on my way out. If you need a quiet pause in your day, this is the perfect place for it.

• Location: Kostelní street, just above Svornosti Square
• Opening Times: Daily 9:00 to 16:00 plus during the services
• Tickets: Free. Donations are welcome.

9. Český Krumlov Monasteries

This is one of the most interesting parts of town, but many visitors walk straight past it. The double monastery of the Minorites and the Poor Clares was founded in 1350 by the Rosenberg family.

The Poor Clares were abolished in 1782 during Emperor Joseph II’s reforms, while the Minorite friars stayed until 1950, when the communist regime shut down religious orders for good. After decades of decay, the complex was restored and reopened to the public in 2015.

It stays open in winter, and even if you don’t go inside, I recommend walking round the gardens and the monastery quarter. It has been beautifully restored, and it’s a lovely, peaceful corner away from the crowds.

I bought my Cesky Krumlov Card here, because as a child I would always walk around curious to see what was inside, but since the whole area was closed down, I could never visit. So, finally this year, I did!

• Location: Latrán, near the Lazebnický Bridge
• Opening Times: Usually open in winter, roughly 10:00 to 16:00. Check days before you go.
• Tickets: Gardens are free. Exhibitions from 180 CZK and are included in the Český Krumlov Card (see my notes below)

10. Kafe Klášter

Kafe Klášter, the monastery café, was my second coffee stop of the day. I needed extra caffein to keep me going through the morning. The cafe has a lovely homely feel, the gingerbread cake was homemade, and the coffee was lovely. It’s much calmer than the cafés around the square and I really like that you can sit without feeling rushed.

• Location: Within the monastery complex in Latrán
• Opening Times: Daily 10:00 to 17:00
• Cost: Coffee and cake from 150 – 200 CZK

11. Seminary Garden & Christmas Light Installations

The Seminary Garden belonged to the Jesuits, whom Vilém of Rosenberg invited to Krumlov in 1584 and you can still see their former seminary buildings standing next to the gardens. The terrace looks straight across the river to the castle tower and I think, it’s one of the prettiest views in town.

At Christmas, there are light installations here, including bears, stars and a big picture frame for selfies. It can get busy, but if you wait around a bit, you’ll find people don’t stay for very long and you can easily look around and take your photos.

• Location: Seminary Garden (Seminární zahrada), Horní street, near the Regional Museum
• Opening Times: Open all day. The lights are best enjoyed after about 16:00.
• Tickets: Free.

12. Drunken Coffee

Drunken Coffee is hidden behind a street of pretty houses and I’m so glad I found it! The views of the river and the castle are amazing. I sat outside under a blanket and was super cosy, even in December.

The traditional gingerbread biscuit was great and the coffee was just as good. In my opinion, it’s one of the best places in town to slow down and read a book with your coffee (even if it’s an e-book in my case!).

• Location: Inner Town, by the river (follow the small passage between the houses)
• Opening Times: Daily 10:00 to 18:00, weather permitting for outdoor seating
• Cost: Coffee & small gingerbread biscuit from 120 CZK

13. Light Installations on the Island

If you follow Na Ostrově street down to the little island on the Vltava you’ll find more Christmas light installations. It’s quieter than the main square, and seeing the lights reflected in the dark water is really beautiful. I think it’s a lovely walk to finish your evening with, especially if you’re visiting with children.

• Location: Na Ostrově street, on the island in the Vltava
• Opening Times: Open all the time. The lights are on from dusk during Advent.
• Tickets: Free.

14. Museum Fotoatelier Seidel

This is definitely one of my favourite museums I’ve recently discovered in Cesky Krumlov. Josef Seidel opened his photography studio here in 1905 and photographed the people, villages and landscapes of the Šumava region for decades.

His son František carried on the business until his death in 1997. The family left behind around 140,000 glass-plate negatives, a fascinating record of life in South Bohemia across the 20th century. The museum opened back in 2008, but I’ve never got the chance to see it until now.

When I visited, the rooms were decorated with oldfashioned Christmas decorations and the whole house fell so cosy. The original studio, with its large windows and old cameras, is wonderful and make sure you also visit the attic where most of the old glass plate negatives are stored.

• Location: Linecká street, a short walk from the Inner Town
• Opening Times: Daily, Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00 to 16:00. Closed on Mondays.
• Tickets: 180 CZK for adults, concessions available. Included in the Český Krumlov Card.

15. Ideal Coffee Roastery

I always like to visit coffee roasters in any town I visit and Ideal Coffee is a great one! It’s a small shop, just big enough if you want to drink your coffee indoors. I was lucky to be served by the owner, who also roasts the beans herself. It’s always lovely to talk to someone who really cares about what they do.

I bought a bag to take home and tried it back in my flat in Prague. It was amazing. I choose a coffee with a slightly lower acidity and it was delicious. I think it also makes a lovely Christmas present for anyone who likes coffee.

• Location: Linecka Street
• Opening Times: Monday to Saturday, 9:00 to 17:00
• Cost: Bags of beans start at around 250 CZK, coffee to go from 80 CZK

16. Viewing Point at the End of Nad Schody

If you only have energy for one walk, make it this one. Head to the far end of Nad Schody street. It’s a bit uphill, but so worth it. From the top, the whole town spreads out beneath you, with the castle tower, St Vitus and the curving Vltava river.

I was standing there, thinking that it looks like a miniature nativity scene, especially in the winter. I think it’s one of best view of Český Krumlov and if you make the effort, you are very likely to be there on your own!

• Location: Far end of Nad Schody street, above the town

My experience with Český Krumlov Card

Since I wasn’t quite sure how much I want to be outside on such a cold day, I though I need to have some back up plan for indoor activities. The main castle is closed for the winter, so I thought the next best thing is to get the Cesky Krumlov Card.

The card is a combined ticket covering five places that stay open in winter: the Castle Tower and Castle Museum, the Monasteries, Fotoatelier Seidel, the Regional Museum and the Egon Schiele Art Centrum, but you have 12 months to use it.

Honestly, you probably won’t have time to see everything in one day. It was worth it for me because I visit Český Krumlov regularly and can come back. If you’re only going for one day, I’d add up the attractions you actually want to see, as it may be cheaper to pay separately.

• Location: Available at the participating museums and the tourist information centre on Svornosti Square
• Opening Times: Valid for 12 months from purchase, during each attraction’s opening hours
• Tickets: 550 CZK adults, with discounts for families and students.

This blog post was originally written on 27 October 2026 and last updated on 27 October 2026